We hired a electric motorbike from town, after a little haggling I think we paid 12,000 for a full day and a half (wanting to do sunset and sunrise) although you have to return the bike overnight for it to be charged, we reappeared at the shop at 4.30 am the next morning and picked it up no problem.
We set off along the main road towards the main temple area and took whichever side roads and dirt tracks looked interesting along the way. Sometimes ending up in at a stupa with lots of tourist and sometimes finding the track petered out to a thin sandy line which if followed lead to smaller temples and stupas where you are completely alone. One of my favorite things about Bagan was the ability to walk or ride in almost any direction off a turning and go past a huge range of stupas and temples, from modest little brick stupas to huge grand 5 level ones.
Where to go / which temple for sunset or sunrise in Bagan?
We tried to research this a little online before heading out but found so much conflicting info that we decided the best bet was to head out with plenty of time and just scout somewhere out along the way. This worked amazingly both times for us, of course that depends on your preference and it’s true there are a few places that have the best views, but my preference would always to be for a quieter place with less tourists even if I have to give up a little of the view to get it! If your the same I’d definitely recommend just heading out, especially across Anawrahta road there are loads of temples along both side of this road that are less known but also less touristy. Often when you drive up or walk around these the gatekeeper (gatekeeper kind of conjures up an image of a mythical old man, but it seems most of the gatekeepers are children sometimes only 6-7 years old) will appear out of nowhere and open the gates and sometimes even show you the way to the top, I don’t really know if tipping is necessary but we gave the kids a small amount of money for their time!